 The Garden Tomb Humayun's tomb lies
on the Mathura road near its crossing with the Lodi Road. High rubble-built
walls enclose here a square garden divided initially into four large squares
separated by causeways and channels, each square divided again into smaller
squares by pathways ('Chaharbagh') as in a typical Mughal garden. The
lofty mausoleum is located in the centre of the enclosure and rises from
a podium faced with series of cells with arched openings. The central
octagonal chamber containing the cenotaph is encompassed by octagonal
chambers at the diagonals and arched lobbies on the sides, their openings
closed with perforated screens. Three emphatic arches dominate each side,
the central one being the highest. This plan is repeated on the second
storey, and a 42.5m high double dome of marble surmounts the roof with
pillared kiosks ('chhatris') placed around it. The structure is built
with red sandstone, but white and black marble has been used to relieve
the monotony, the latter largely in the borders. Haveli Of Hakeem Ashanullah
Khan The haveli of Hakeem Ashanullah Khan, personal physician of the emperor
Bahdur Shah Zafar, was a fortress for those who were able to hide themselves
here in the 'ghadar'- the Sepoy Mutiny time. The mansion almost covers
2,000-square-yards and appears to be a mohalla itself. It was because
of the orders of the Hakeem that Ghalib was given the scholarship to write
the history of the Mughal dynasty. Immediately after the Mutiny, British
confiscated the house of the Hakeem. It was soon returned too, but not
before it was stripped of the old chandeliers and lamps. True Mughal Architecture
The tomb was built by Humayun's senior widow Bega Begam, popularly known
as Haji Begam, nine years after his death in 1565 according to some, but
fourteen years according to the manuscript of an 18th century text. It
is the first substantial example of the Mughal architecture, with high
arches and double dome, which occurs here for the first time in India.
Although some tombs had already been sited within gardens, it is also
the first mature example of the idea of garden-tomb, which culminated
in the Taj-Mahal at Agra. The enclosure is entered through two lofty double-storeyed
gateways, one on the west and the other on the south, the latter now remaining
closed. A 'baradari' (pavilion) occupies the centre of the eastern wall
of the enclosure and a bath-chamber that of the northern wall. A Homage
To The Royal Dynasty Several rulers of the Mughal dynasty lie buried in
the mausoleum, although it is not possible to identify their graves. Among
those lying buried here are Bega Begam, Hamida Banu Begam - Humayun's
junior wife, Dara Shikoh - Shah Jahan's son, and the later Mughals, Jalandar
Shah, Farrukhsiyar, Rafi'u'd-Darajat, Rafi'u'd-Daula and 'Alamgir II,
Bahadur Shah II, the last Mughal emperor of Delhi had taken shelter in
this tomb with the three princes during the mutiny and was captured here
in 1857 by Lieutenant Hodson.
AROUND THE TOMB Barber's Tomb Within the compound of Humayun's tomb to
its southeast stands an impressive square tomb with a double-dome. It
is not quite known who is buried inside it, although it is usually referred
to as Barber's tomb. There are two graves inside it inscribed with verses
from the Quran. One of the graves is inside it inscribed with verses from
the Quran. One of the graves is inscribed with the figure 999, which may
stand for the 'Hijra' year corresponding to 1590-91. Nila-Gumbad Outside
the Humayun's tomb enclosure on the southeastern side stands an impressive
tomb of plastered stone covered with a dome of blue tiles. Octagonal externally
but square within, its ceiling is profusely decorated with painted and
incised plaster. With its high neck and absence of a double dome, which
would be usual for this period, it is a unique construction. Conforming
to its general colourful appearance around its drum are traces of tiles
of other colours. Known as Nila-Gumbad (blue dome), it is believed to
have been built in 1625 by 'Abdu'r-Rahim Khan Khan-i-Khanan and is said
to contain the remains of Fahim Khan, one of his faithful attendants.
There is some indication, however, that the tomb may have existed even
before the construction of Humayun's tomb and may, therefore, contain
the remains of some other person. Arab-Sarai The Arab-Sarai consists of
a large enclosure adjoining the southwestern corner of Humayun's tomb.
It is divided into two quadrangles by series of cells provided with a
gateway in the centre.
The western enclosure has now been occupied by the Industrial Training
Institute. Immediately outside its lofty eastern entrance approached by
a gateway from the east, with traces of paintings on its underside, is
the second quadrangle,originally bounded by arched cells, which is known
as the 'mandi' (market) and was added by Mihr Banu Agha, chief eunuch
of Jahangir. The northern gate of the Arab-Sarai lies immediately to the
right of the eastern gate of Bu'- Halima's garden.
It is said that the Arab-Sarai was built
by Bega Begam or Haji Begam for three hundred Arab 'mullas' (priests)
whom she had brought from Mecca. It is, however, suspected by some that
the Arab-Sarai might possibly be a misnomer, and the enclosure probably
housed Persian workers and craftsmen who were engaged in building Humayun's
tomb. Chilla-Nizamu'd-Din Auliya Outside the north-eastern corner of Humayun's
tomb are the remains of certain rooms with 'verandahs'. It is believed
that this place was used by Shaikh Nizam-ud-Din Auliya who died in 1325
and whose dargah is described elsewhere, although the constructional features
of an adjacent double-storeyed house point out to its construction during
the reign of Humayun or Akbar. Bara-Batashewala-Mahal Within an enclosure
to the north of Humayun's tomb, now occupied by the Bharat Scouts and
Guides, there are some monuments. The largest of these, known as Bara-Batashewala-Mahal,
stands on a raised platform each of its sides pierced by five arches with
a vaulted chamber in the centre. Originally it was surrounded by a walled
enclosure, which has now disappeared Over the entrance to the central
chamber is an inscription from which we learn that Mirza Muzaffar was
buried here in 1012 A.H. (1603). Mirza Muzaffar Husain, whose grandfather
came from Khurasan to Babur's court, was the son of Gulrukh Begam, daughter
of Humayun's brother Mirza Kamran. He was married to the eldest daughter
of Akbar, Sultan Khanam. About 40m east from Bara-Batashewala-Mahal but
within its original enclosure stands another rubble-built tomb with a
central chamber, square within and octagonal externally, with floral,
geometrical and inscriptional decoration in incised plaster on the interior.
It is known as Chhota-Batashewala-Mahal. The identity of the person buried
in the tomb is not known. Afsarwala Mosque And Tomb Within the eastern
enclosure of the Arab-Sarai lies a mosque on a raised platform. Its prayer-chamber
is faced by three arched openings, the central bay being roofed by a dome.
In alignment with the mosque to its north is a long dilapidated hall with
arched openings. At the southeastern corner of the mosque on the same
raised platform stands an octagonal tomb with double dome. The tomb and
the mosque go under the name of Afsarwala. The identity of the 'Afsar'
or officer who raised these buildings is not known. One of the graves
inside the tomb bears the figures 974, which may refer to Hijra year corresponding
to 1566-67. Both the mosque and tomb may have been built about that time.
Bu'-Halima's Garden As the visitor approaches Humayun's tomb from Mathura
road, he passes through a rectangular enclosure with a tomb in its northern
half and a gateway on its east, which is in the same alignment as the
main entrance of Humayun's tomb. Since the northern wall of the Arab-Sarai
abuts on the plastered exterior of the eastern enclosure of this garden,
it may have existed before the Arab-Sarai, built by Humayun's senior widow.
The garden is known as Bu'-Halima's garden, and an unidentified lady is
believed to have been interred in the above-mentioned tomb. The coloured
tiles, traces of which still exist on the entrance facing the Humayun's
tomb, combined with the use of sandstone, both set in plaster, lend it
a picturesque charm. It is doubtful, however, if the garden was originally
laid for this tomb, as the latter is not in former's centre, as usual
in garden-tombs.
 'Isa Khan's Tomb
'Isa Khan's tomb stands immediately to the south of Bu'-Halima's garden.
It consists of an octagonal garden enclosure, with entrance on the north,
in the centre of which lies the mausoleum, as in Mubarak Shah's tomb.
With a central octagonal chamber surrounded by verandahs, each side pierced
by three arches, the mausoleum rises from a low plinth and is surrounded
by a dwarf wall. Above the arches runs a 'chhajja' and each of the side
is surmounted on the roof by a domed 'chhatri', with the central dome
rising from a thirty-two-sided drum. The sides of the chamber are closed
by perforated stone slabs except on the west and south. The western side
contains a minhrab on the interior, while the southern side forms the
main entrance. A three-domed mosque projects outward from the western
side of the octagonal enclosure. It follows, thus, the typical pattern
of the octagonal Lodi tombs.
'Isa Khan was a nobleman at the courts of
Sher Shah Suri (1539-45) and his son Islam Shah (1545-54). There is an
inscription over the minhrab mentioning the date of 954 A.H. (1547-48).
Sabz-Burj
This octagonal tomb with four wide and four narrow sides ('Muthamman-i-Baghdadi'),
stands on the roundabout of the junction of Mathura road and Lodi road
to the west of Humayun's tomb. It has high recessed arches on all its
sides and a high-drummed double dome covered with coloured tiles, which
has given it its present name, meaning the 'green dome'. Lacking such
pre-Mughal features as 'guldastas', chhajjas and chhatris, architecturally,
the building is in Central Asian tradition and can be placed in the early
Mughal period. With traces of cross-walls on well-shaped plan and wooden
beams preserved in the upper dome, it retains some clues of the methods
of its construction.
Nili-Chhatri
Nili-Chhatri lies within the compound of the Delhi Public School on the
Mathura Road and is octagonal in plan. The building stood on a raised
platform and was originally enclosed by a wall. Its outer facades were
lavishly ornamented with enamelled tiles of several colours, but the entire
superstructure has now been demolished. It is believed to be the tomb
of Naubat Khan, a noble man of Akbar's court.
Timings : Opened till 10 pm on all days of the week.
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